Bake, mash or mush: ways to fall in love with unloved beans

When Karla Zazueta was growing up, her family would make a big batch of pinto beans every Monday, and it’s a tradition she continues to this day. “I don’t know a Mexican who doesn’t eat beans at least once a day,” says the author of Nortena, and for her that starts with frijoles de la olla, or beans from the pot. “Soak dried beans for two hours, then drain and transfer to a large pan. Add fresh water, a peeled and halved onion, two or three garlic cloves and epazote, a Mexican herb [although bay leaves would do the job, too].” Simmer, covered, for 45 minutes, then garnish with chopped onion, coriander, cheese and spicy salsa or chopped jalapeños. Later in the week, fry the beans for a Mexican breakfast (“an essential side”) or turn them into a sauce for enfrijoladas: “They’re a bit like enchiladas, but the juicy beans are turned into a runny sauce to drench corn tortillas in.” Mashed black beans, meanwhile, give quesadillas a nice bit of texture, or follow Meera Sodha’s lead and blend them with a few tablespoons of bean liquid, chipotle and salt to make an excellent base for tacos.

For Anna Tobias, chef-owner of Cafe Deco in London, meanwhile, it’s black-eye beans that deserve more love: “Sweat an onion with garlic, then add paprika, half a tin of tomatoes, the beans and a bay leaf for good measure, then bake.” That topped with a boiled egg will see you right or, “for a proper dinner”, dunk in a couple of sausages and serve with a side of greens.

Braising is another good bean tactic to keep in your back pocket, says Rosie Mackean, author of Good Time Cooking. “There’s this gorgeous Spanish lentil stew called lentejas that’s moreishly creamy when made with kidney beans instead,” she says, especially if you also chuck in some chorizo, potato, cumin and a splash of red wine. “When you’re cooking something that’s a bit gloomy-looking, the key is always to brighten it at the end with the likes of a salsa verde or gremolata.” Mackean also suggests getting on board with baked beans, especially in pies: “They’re a great substitute for meat – a pot pie with kidney beans, cavolo nero and a nice creamy sauce, for example, is just so good.” (If you’ve got a spare anchovy to toss into the mix, so much the better.)

She also uses beans to make a big bowl of smooth dip, and says it’s worth considering colour here, too. “Blend brown beans with something of another dark colour – roast tomatoes or peppers, say – and you’ll end up with a sort of bean romesco, which you can then top with sizzling brown butter and lots of dill.” Remember to pop an ice cube in the blender to help turn things extra-creamy, and serve with crusty bread and/or crisps for dunking.

Speaking of snacks, it’s wise to make friends with roast beans, AKA the multi-purpose dish that can be eaten by the handful and also used to bolster meals. “Drain kidney, black or cannellini beans, pat them dry, then add salt, spices and a bit of cornflour,” Mackean says. They’ll crisp up nicely after an hour in a 160C oven, ready to toss into salads or simply eaten as is, preferably with a cocktail.

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